Chapter IV

Making a Cabinet

In Fig. 111 is shown the perspective drawing of a cabinet that embodies in its construction the elementary principles of cabinet construction. This
cabinet is intended primarily for holding music, either sheet or roll, but it will serve as a curio case equally well. Figure 112 gives the necessary dimen­sions for the case.

Fig.Ill —The Cabinet

Square up the two sides and shape the ends. Square up the three shelves and work the tenons. The mor­tises in the sides may then be laid out and worked These joints, including the dadoes of the stationary shelf next the top shelf, are laid out and worked in a manner similar to those joints in the magazine stand of Chapter XIV, the key and its mortise omitted of course. The two shelves of 1/2-in. stock shown in Fig. 112 are to be movable and to be worked later.

The back of the cabinet is to be a paneled frame and is to be set into the sides of the cabinet one-half their thickness. The sides of the cabinet will, there­fore, have to be rabbeted accordingly. A rabbet or rebate is a rectangular recess cut along the edge of a board. Figure 113 shows the rabbeted side of the cabinet. Rabbeting may be done with a chisel, the sides of the rabbet being first gauged deeply with the marking gauge. The manner of loosening up or scor­ing the waste of the rabbet preparatory to paring the sides with the chisel is shown. If the rabbet does not run full length as in Fig. 113, the chisel and gauge must be used. The rest of the rabbet can be worked more advantageously, however, by means of a combi­nation plane, shown in Fig. 22, Chapter V. This plane has a guide or fence which can be adjusted so as to hold the cutter on the board at the proper distance from the edge. It also has a stop which can be set and thus cause the cutter to cease cutting when the desired depth has been reached. With these guides, no gauge line is necessary. In a rabbet like this one, the practical cabinet-maker would hardly take time to make a stopped rabbet, but would rabbet the full length of the side with the plane. Of course the lower part of the rabbet will not be filled by the panel but it will not be visible from the front.

Directions for Making Panel

The top backing of 1-in. stock may next be shaped after which the back paneling is to be made. The stiles and rails of this paneling are to be made of 5/8-in. stock.

The panel proper is to be of 7/16 in. stock. Figure 114 shows the detail. This is what is known as a flush panel, the panel being rabbeted on one side so that that side shall be flush or even with the frame. In making this panel, get out the stock for the rails and stiles about 1/4 in. wider than the drawing calls for and somewhat longer. This is to make it possible to plane and fit the frame in place. In ripping their width, take pains to get them all to a uniform excess over the width called for. Work a face edge on each piece and plow a groove the full length of each as indicated in the cross-section of Fig. 114. Use the combination plane, adjusting it suitably. Lay off on the two rails the proper distance between the shoulders, and, using these as shoulder lines, lay out tenons that shall fit the grooves just made as mortises. Cut these tenons. Work the panel to size and rabbet the edges as called for by the drawing. If the lumber is well seasoned, it will be necessary to make the panel slightly smaller in width than the dimensions given, to allow for swell­ing. Nothing need be allowed in length, for wood does not shrink appreciably along the grain.

Get the bar clamps ready, mark the proposed location of the rails on the stiles, so that no time need be lost after the glue is applied, then glue the tenons and assemble the panel with its frame. Do not place any glue on the panel edge, unless it be a slight touch at either end in the middle. The panel must be free to move in the groove with the swelling or shrinkage, or it will split. The touch at the center of the ends is to hold the panel centering as it swells or shrinks. Place the clamps over the rails and adjust the blocks so that the pressure leaves the surface of the panel and frame level and out of wind. Test the panel with straightedge crosswise and diagonally, or sight across it with the eye.

Fig. 115 —Shouldered Tenon Joint

 This is a common way of making the frame for a panel and answers very well where the four sides of the frame are to be supported as in this case. On a door, however, stub tenons using the grooves as mortises would not be strong enough. In this case, a deeper mortise and a longer tenon would be necessary. To make it possible to plow the full length of the rails and stiles, the tenon is shouldered as in Fig. 115. This is what is known as a haunched tenon-and-mortise. Mortise and tenon are made first and the grooves plowed afterward, the tenon and mortise being given the same thickness and location as the groove.

Doweling Front Brace

Shape the lower edge of the front brace, square the ends, then dowel them. After this, the surfaces of the parts already worked may be smoothed and these parts put together. The tenons of the horizontals and the doweled ends of the front brace are to be glued with good hot glue, but the entire backing should be fastened with screws.

Fig. 116 — Shouldered Tenon Joint for Glass Panel

Directions for Making Door

There remains to be made the drawer, door and shelving. The door may be made with a wood panel, in which case it will be worked by methods similar to those used on the back panel. It will not be necessary to use a flush panel. Use one with a thickness equal tothe width of the grooves. The haunched tenon-and-mortise should be used. If an art glass panel is to be used, as shown in the perspective drawing, it will be necessary to work the joints at the corners of the frame a little differently. Saw out the stiles and rails, as in the back panel, making them somewhat wider and longer than the dimensions of the drawing, but of uni­form excesses. Plane face edges and lay out mortises and tenons on them as in Fig. 116—tenons on the rails and mortises on the stiles. The size and location of these will depend upon the rabbet or recess that is to be made to receive the glass.

It will be noticed that one shoulder of the tenon is worked enough longer than the other that it may extend to the bottom of the rabbet. This makes it possible to rabbet the full length of both stile and rail with the plane. Work the joints and then rabbet the edges. Glue the tenons and mortises and clamp the frame, sighting for wind and adjusting the clamp­ing blocks so as to leave the door square and true.
Directions for Making Drawer

Fie. 117 —Two Styles of Drawers

While the glue on the door is hardening, the drawer may be made. Figure 117 shows two styles of drawers. The first is easier to make but the second, the one with dovetail joints, is better and is the style used on fine cabinet work. Drawer fronts are usually thicker than the rest of the drawer stock. While the front is always of the same kind of material as the rest of the cabinet,, the sides, back and bottom are usually of some close-grained wood such as yellow poplar. To make either style of drawer, get out the requisite num­ber of pieces of the thicknesses necessary. Square them to size. The length of the drawer should be 3/16 in. less than the place in which it is to slide. This is to allow for swelling. The drawer front, however, may be squared up to a length equal to that of the opening, allowing its ends to project beyond the sides of the drawer. This will allow fitting the front without hav­ing to plane the sides of the drawer. Plow the grooves in which the bottom is to rest in the front and sides, also in the back of the. dovetailed type. Lay out and cut the dadoes in the sides, into which the back is to be placed in the ordinary type, then the rabbeted corners on the drawer front. In this type the back of the drawer rests upon the drawer bottom. In the dovetail type, theback of the drawer is the same width as the front. The dovetails are to be laid out and worked. The dovetail at the front is known as a half-blind dove­tail and that at the back as a multiple plain dovetail. Of course the half-blind dovetail might be used at the front with the dado construction at the back as in the first type of drawer. It is very important to follow the rule about placing the faces, face sides being turned in so as to make the members of the joints fit face to face.

Fig 118 —Dovetail Join

Directions for Making Dovetail Joints

There are no new principles in the layout or working of the corner joints of the ordinary type of drawer. The making of the dovetail joints for the cabinet drawers, however, will require specific directions. The tails, Fig. 118, are to be made on the drawer sides and the pins or tenons on the drawer back. Locate the shoulder lines on the back and front and on the sides at the same time, and square knife lines around in the usual manner. On the ends of the back and front lay off center lines for the tenons, Fig. 119. Set the bevel square to a slope of 5/8 in. in 3 in. and lay off the flares across the ends. The greatest flare must be at the face side. Carry these lines down the two broad surfaces of the drawer, back as far as the shoulder lines. On the drawer front carry them on the face side only.

Set a gauge to a distance equal to that wanted for the length of the tails on the forward ends of the drawer sides or ends, and gauge across both ends of the drawer front, the head of the gauge being held against the face side. With fine cutting tenon or back saw, saw the tenons, keeping the kerf on the waste, of course. With a chisel, and working from both sides, cut the shoulders. Figure 120 shows the manner of sawing and chiseling the blind dovetails.

To make the tails place the tenons upon the drawer sides so that the face side is on the knife line indicating the shoulders and mark the sides as in Fig. 121. With try-square and bevel square complete the layout on the ends and far side. Saw the sides, then chisel the shoulders, chiseling from both sides.

If the parts have been carefully made, it ought to be possible to fit them together with but little trimming. Fit them together dry, bottom and all, to see that all is ready, then glue and clamp. As in the panel, put no glue on the bottom unless a little at the center of the ends. In fitting the bottom, should it prove thicker than the groove, plane the under side of the drawer bottom at the ends. After the glue has set, the joints ma}r be smoothed up and the drawer fitted to its runway. The pull should be placed, but should be taken off during the application of the finish.


Fig. 122D —Setting Gauge for Depth

The door of the cabinet is to be fitted and hung while the glue is setting on the drawer joints. Plane one edge and the top of the door until they fit the frame of the cabinet. Secure the width of the opening, top and bottom, and transfer it to the door and connect these marks with a straightedge. Plane to the line, testing occasionally by holding the door against the frame to make sure any irregularities are provided for. That the door may open easily, it should have a little play and the back arrises should be lowered slightly in planning the edges. Secure the length on each side of the door and plane up the remaining end accordingly. No stop will be necessary except at the top of the door, against which the door can bump, the shelf supports acting as stops.

In hinging the door, place the lower hinge just above the lower rail and the upper hinge just below the upper rail. Place the door against the stops and slip some­thing under it—a chisel or knife will do—to hold it in place, then mark on both door and jamb simultaneously the knife marks for the location of the upper edge of the top hinge and the lower edge of the lower hinge. Take down the door and, holding the hinge as in Fig. 122A, mark the length of the gains. Do this on both door and jamb, making sure to have the two correspond. Set a gauge for the width of the chiseled gain into which the hinge leaf is to enter (Fig. 122B). This distance is to be determined by the thickness of the door and the amount the knuckle is to project. In this case, let the line be gauged within 1/8 in. of the arris, gauging from the face side of course (Fig. 122C). Next set a gauge for the depth the hinge is to be sunk (Fig. 122D). With these settings gauge both door and jamb. In gauging the jambs for the width of gain, it frequently happens that the stops interfere. This can be remedied by hav­ing one gauge with its end sawed off very close to the spur. In this cabinet the stops might have been left off until after placing the hinges.

If loose pin butt hinges are to be used, separate the parts and attach one to the door and its remaining leaf to the jamb. If the hinge is what is known as a plain butt, they will have to be attached to either door or jamb and the door held up while the remaining leaves are fastened to the corresponding gains. Put only one or two screws in each leaf until the door has been put in place and tested. Even with expert mechanics it is necessary to make a trial test. If the hinges bind, that is, if the door cannot be shut without springing the hinges, remove the door and the leaf of the hinge that causes trouble on either jamb or door and insert a piece of cardboard or heavy paper the full length of the hinge and again test. If the hinge in the first test fails to draw the door up against the jamb, it will be necessary to remove the hinge and chisel the gain deeper. Allow a little play for the wood finish, as this will add some thickness and a little additional allowance must be made for swelling, the amount depending upon the size of the door—in this case not more than 1/16in. on lock side and top and bottom. Fit the hinge side up practically tight, without forcing. The gains are to be scored and chiseled according to processes previously learned. A comparatively new style of hinge is shown in Fig. 123. It is easily applied. One leaf is gained into the jamb, the door is then placed and the other or surface leaf is screwed to the door while the door is in this position.

Directions for Placing Lock

Selvage
Fie. 124 —A Cabinet Lock

After hinging comes the locking. Figure 124 shows a common form of cabinet lock. The lock is attached by first locating a hole for the key and knob at a point somewhat above the center. Hold the lock against the stile and mark through the box and press the key pin against the stile. The lock is to be let into the stile so that the holes will need to be bored back from the edge of the stile far enough to allow the selvage to rest slightly below the surface of the edge of the stile about 1/32in. This is to allow for planing the door, should future unlooked for swelling necessitate. Again place the lock against the stile and mark off thelength of the gain for the selvage. Gauge for the depth and width of the selvage and chisel, after scor­ing, in the usual manner. Next chisel just enough to let in the box of the lock and the face. Place the screws. Swing the door in place and turn out the bolt and mark its vertical position on the edge of the jamb. Square these lines back on the jamb and after securing the horizontal measurement from the door, transfer it to the jamb and mark the near side of the small mortise which is to hold thebolt when the door is locked. Place the strike and knife around it and then chisel the mortise carefully. Screw the strike fast and chisel out enough to let the bolt enter it.


Fig 125

Figure 125 shows a drawer pull. The manner of setting it is easily seen.

Directions for Shelving

The shelving is to be made next. While the draw­ing shows but two shelves, there may be any number desired. There are various ways of holding movable shelving in use among cabinet workers. The simplest is a metal fixture so made that it slips into one of a series of holes bored in the sides of the cabinet at each of the four corners. These holes are uniformly spaced and allow the shelves to be placed in many different spacings. Small dowels would answer the same purpose.

Figure 126 illustrates another and more substantial method. For this, square up two pieces of 1/4 or 3/8-in. stock to a width of 1½ in. Gauge a line down the middle and lay off on this holes 1½ in. apart, beginning about 2 or 3 in. from the bottom. Bore 3/4-in. holes at these centers and rip along the gauge line. Plane off the saw marks, saw the pieces to length and nail them one in each corner of the cabinet. Make twice as many cleats as there are to be shelves, rounding the ends after having determined the length by measuring the cabinet. The width of these cleats will need to be 3/4 in. and the thickness the same as the corner supports. These cleats can be placed in any desired location. Square up the shelves and with try-square, gauge and saw lay out and notch the ends so that their ends will rest upon the cleats.

Fig. 127—Setting the Glass

Directions for Setting Glass

There remains the making of the fillet which is to hold the ornamental glass in the frame of the door. This may be made square. Make it in one piece, then miter and fit it after the glass is set. Before setting the glass the cabinet should be scraped, sandpapered and made ready for the finish. The stain and filler should be applied, then the glass set. In setting this glass, place a cushion of putty in the rabbet first, then place the glass in the rabbet, pressing it firmly into the putty. Put another layer of putty on the glass and place the fillet of wood on this. Fasten the fillet in place, Fig. 127, with small brads and putty the holes made with putty colored to match the filler.