Chapter XIV

Making a Magazine Stand

In Fig. 93 is shown the perspective of a magazine stand which has been chosen to introduce three new kinds of fastenings or joints. Figure 94 gives the di­mensions and from them the stock bill is to be made out. In ordering, it may be advantageous to combine the lengths of the shelves and of the sides. It should be noted that the shelves, of 3/4-in. stock, are slightly narrower than the sides. They might be made of the same width, but in the first construction any little va­riation in the location of the joints makes no noticeable difference.

Square up the different pieces as indicated in the drawing, and shape their ends. The making of the joints comes next. Those on the shelf ends may be made first.

Figure 95 shows the joint for the two middle shelves, the housed joint. Place the two shelves on the bench, face edges up, and square two knife lines across them —one at each end—so that the distance between the lines shall be 14 in. If the pieces were cut the correct length, this should leave 1/4 in. between each line and the end of the piece. Separate the pieces and with the knife and try-square, scribe knife lines entirely around each piece at each end. With the gauge set to 5/8-in., gauge on the two broad surfaces and on the ends as in Fig. 96. With the backsaw, rip to the gauge lines and cross-cut to the knife lines, keeping the kerf on the waste wood. Saw to the lines accurately, so that no paring need be done.

Now make the tenons on the upper and lower shelves. Place the shelves on the bench, face edges up and even the ends. Square knife lines across the edges, equidistant from each end, with a distance of 14 in. between. If there was trouble in making the two previous pieces so that their length had to be made shorter than what the drawing called for, of course the distance just specified must be shortened correspondingly. Separate the pieces and scribe lines entirely around each end corresponding to the knife lines just made on the face edges. Lay the rule along this line, Fig. 97, and with the knife, point off spaces as indicated. Setting the gauge spur in the mark nearest the edge, gauge all the tenons on the two broad surfaces as far back as the knife lines just made and also across the ends. Reset the gauge to the other mark and repeat until all are marked.

Before these tenons are worked or cut, the mortises for the keys should be laid out. From the knife line that represents the shoulder of the tenon, measure toward the end of the tenon 1/32 in. less than 7/8 in. The sides of the stand are 7/8,in. thick and this 1/32in. less is to insure the pins pulling up tight against the sides of the stand. On the upper side of the shelf measure on toward the end from this line 7/16 in. Square sharp pencil lines across the tenons at these points. Carry the first line entirely around the piece so that it will be across the under side of the board as well. Since the pins or keys have slant to make them wedge, the second line will need to be only 3/8 in. further out toward the end of the tenon. Lay the ruler along these lines as was done in Fig. 97 and mark off points to indicate the gauge settings for the sides of these mortises. Gauge both sides of the board, and knife the pencil lines between these gauge lines. This knifing is to make it easier to chisel the mortise ends accurately. The chisel can be set in knife lines but not in pencil lines. A little thought will make it clear why the knife was not used at the first lining.

Fig. 96 —Gauging the Ends

Work the tenons and mortises for the keys. Rip with the backsaw to the lines, keeping the kerf in the waste, then cross-cut the exterior shoulders. To cut the inclosed shoulder it will be necessary to bore a hole, and then, using a key-hole saw, cut parallel and very near to the line. The remaining part may be pared away with the chisel, working from both sides. The ends of the tenons are to be chamfered slightly. To work the mortises, bore a hole, and then, working from this hole, pare out to the lines. Bore from the smaller opening, the lower side of the shelf.

Fie. 97 —Marking Spaces

Everything is now ready for working the corre­sponding openings or mortises in the two sides of the stand. Lay the two sides on the bench with the face edges up, and even the ends. Measure off and square knife lines across the edges at the places where the mortises are to be made. If the shelves are of uniform thickness, both sides of the mortises may be laid off by measurement. If not, it will be safer to lay off only the lower lines now and locate the upper lines by superposition. Separate the pieces and square the lines across the face sides, that is, the inner sides. Determine now and mark the way the parts are to rest in the final assembling. By laying the tenons on the corresponding cross lines for the mortises, locate the points from which the gauge settings are to be taken, Fig. 98. For the mortises of the upper and lower shelves, bore in each a series of holes close enough to one another to make one connected opening. Use as large a bit as the mortise will allow safely. With the chisel, work from the hole toward the lines as was done in making the mortises for the keys. In working the mortises into which the ends of the middle shelves are to be housed it will be neces­sary to chisel lines parallel

to the given lines, about 1/16 in. in the waste, then work the mortise to depth. After this, the sides may be pared to the knife lines without danger of making the mortises too wide. In roughing out the bottoms, the chisel is to be held bevel side down. When nearly to depth, a router (Fig. 99) may be used. The keys or wedges may be made in a variety of shapes. The essential thing is to so design them that they will fit properly and not be likely to break. This matter of proper fitting is the only thing that neces­sitates definite measurements. Square up the keys to length, having first made a face edge and obtained the proper thickness. Midway between the ends, square two lines across the face side a distance apart equal to the thickness of a shelf, or 3/4in. Along one of these lines, AB, Fig. 98, measure from the face edge 7/16 in. Along the lower, CD, Fig. 98, measure 3/8 in. The outline of the remaining unworked edge of the key, whatever its shape, must pass through these two points.

Fig. 99 —Router

The two braces which are to be placed under the lower shelf are to have their ends doweled into the sides. Use a dowel 3/8 in. in diameter. Dowels can be purchased put up in bundles, each stick about a yard in length. Cut each pin about 1½ in. long. Slightly round the arrises and with the tenon saw or backsaw, saw a shallow slot the full length of the pin.

Fig. 100 —Marking Holes for Dowels

This is to allow any surplus glue in the bottom of the hole to escape when pressure is applied to force the dowel in. If the dowel were to fit snugly and the glue not allowed to escape when the pin is pounded in, the board might be split by the pressure of the glue. The most important thing in making a dowel joint is to get the holes laid out and bored in exactly corresponding positions. The centers for the holes may be laid out by measurement; but as easy a way— one that insures greater accuracy—is to drive two small brads into one of the members where the cen­ters are to be, and snip off the heads so that the nails project about 1/16in. (Fig. 100.) Place the member against the other in its exact position and press these brads into the side of the other member. Remove the piece and the brads, using pincers for the latter, and then carefully bore the holes to depth. With a stick or a small brush, place glue on the sides of the holes that are in the ends of the brace, and insert the dowels. The stand is now ready to be assembled.

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