Chapter XI

Making a Bird Box

Now that the beginner has learned how to order, how to lay out and cut his stock and how to square it up, he may profitably begin the making of the six pieces which will be described hereafter. The projects are so arranged that each one introduces some new wood-working process.

By the time the six are com­pleted, the beginner will have had experience in the essential processes, such as boring, chiseling, etc., and in the making of the most important joints. Each pro­ject is more difficult than the preceding one, so that the last will, if completed satisfactorily, indicate con­siderable skill and knowledge of the elementary prin­ciples of wood-working.

Fie, 58 —Setting Angle of T-Bevel

First, from the mechanical drawing of the bird house (Fig. 56), make out a stock bill in the form indicated in Chapter I. With this bill before you, lay out and cut the stock as directed in Chapters II and IV. Be­gin on the easiest pieces by squaring up the bottom or floor and the two roof boards shown in the perspective sketch, Fig. 57. Follow Chapters VI and VII or Chapter VIII, according as the stock is mill-planed or rough.

Fig. 59

The ends of the house may now be made. They should be squared up in the usual way except that only one end of each need be squared and no attention need be paid to the length, provided you are careful not to take off too much in squaring the first end of the board. These two house ends are alike in size; they are dupli­cate parts so the beginner will need to know how me­chanics would handle them so as to save time. Make the ends and sides even and, with light brads, nail the two parts together, nailing only in those parts that will not show the nail holes. The 45-deg. slopes are now to be laid out by means of the bevel-square or T-bevel. Figure 58 shows an easy way to set the bevel to 45 deg. Measure off on the edge of a straight board any given distance, say 4 in. With the try-square, place a line across the board at one of these marks and measure from the edge of the board along this line an equal distance, 4 in., and adjust the blade of the level as shown. Lay off the slopes by marking along the bevel placed as in Fig. 59, and from the other edge. Saw a little outside of the lines, and plane to them ac­curately, testing with the try-square.

Separate the pieces and lay out the door and the centers of ventilating holes in the gables. A pair of dividers will be needed to lay out the door. Figure 60 shows the manner of setting them. After the approx­imate setting has been secured, the thumbscrew is tightened and the thumbnut is used to set the points exactly.

For boring the holes, there will be needed a brace and a 1-in. auger bit, Fig. 61. Braces are of two kinds, plain and ratchet. The latter has the advantage over the former in that it can be used in corners and up against a wall where only a partial turn is possible. Auger bits vary in size by sixteenths of an inch. The size of an auger bit is indicated by a number on the tang. If a single number, it is the numerator of a fraction whose de­nominator is sixteen.

To insert the bit, hold the grip in the left hand and with the right re­volve the crank until the jaws are open wide enough to take in the en­tire tang of the bit. The jaws should clamp upon the shank. In­sert the bit and close the jaws by re­volving the crank in the reverse di­rection.

To bore the holes, place the piece in the vise, Fig. 62, and bore until the spur appears on the reverse side. Reverse the position of the piece and, inserting the spur in the small hole just made, finish the boring. This method prevents any splitting of the arrises. The bit must be held perpendicular to the surface of the wood. Sight the whole brace and bit frequently from one direction, then from a po­sition at right angles to this, until the bit has entered well into the wood. A small coping or scroll saw may be used to finish the cutting of the door Saw right up to the line, keeping the saw cut or kerf on the waste wood.

Fig 64 — Sandpapering

Make the two sides of the house. These pieces are to be squared up in the usual manner, except that in obtaining the width, the bevel square is to be used for testing the angle instead of the try-square, Fig. 63.

Test constantly while ap­proaching the line. If by acci­dent the line is overplaned, it will be necessary to put on new lines for width and to lay out anew and rework the length of the ends of the house to corre­spond.

The different pieces should now be sandpapered nice and clean. Sandpaper should not be depended upon to do the work of the edged tools. The edges and ends of the pieces which are to be placed against other pieces to make joints should not be sandpapered. A better joint is obtained by using the planed surface, since sand­papering has a tendency to round the edge.

Fold the sandpaper sheet into at least four parts and make a block on which to place it. Make the block of such a size that the paper will not extend over the ends but will extend up the sides far enough to allow the fingers to grasp them firmly (Fig. 64). A good work­man sandpapers so as to keep the arrises sharp, unless it be on the arm of a chair, etc., where the sharp arris would injure the hand.

We are now ready to assemble and nail the parts to­gether. There will be needed some nails, either com­mon or finishing. Common nails have fiat heads; fin­ishing nails have small round heads and are more suitable for fine work. Casing nails have small heads, but with slightly thicker bodies than the finishing. In ordering nails, specify the length in inches and the thickness accord­ing to the gauge of wire. Figure 65 shows a wire gauge. It is the slot and not the circular opening that indicates the gauge.

Place an end of the box in the vise, Fig. 66, and, standing so as to be able to sight along the lower piece, drive in the nails. Drive the nail almost in and finish with a nail-set (Fig. 67), so as not to mar the surface of the wood. Should the nail not enter properly, withdraw it (Fig. 68), and start it in another place nearby. Nail this side to the other end, then nail the other side in place. Put on the bottom or floor, then the roof boards.

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