Chapter VII

Squaring Up Mill-Planed Stock (Continued)

Gauging for Width

Having planed and marked the face side and face edge, the next step is to mark the desired width. Figure 36 shows the tool used for this purpose and the manner of holding it while setting it. It is called a marking gauge. Gauge sticks are marked off like a ruler into inches and fractions. These markings are so unreliable, however, that it is better not to depend upon them. Figure 37 shows the position of the gauge in action. The top of the spur is tipped forward so as to make the cutting edge enter the wood at a slight angle while the tool is being pushed forward. The head of the gauge must be held against the face edge.

Fig. 36—Holding and Setting Marking Gauge

Planing Second Edge

The second edge is planed in a manner similar to that of the first. The gauge line limits the amount of wood that may be removed. Care must be taken, therefore, to test with the try-square as was done on the first edge while approaching the line, so that any irregularities may be corrected by the time the line is reached.

Fig. 37—Gauging for Width

The test for straightness such as was given the first edge is not necessary here, if the gauge line has been planed properly. The first edge being straight and the second one gauged there from, the second edge will be straight too if the gauging has been carefully done. If there is more than one-fourth of an inch of waste outside the gauge line, it should be ripped off, cutting parallel to the line and about 3/16 in. in the waste.

Planing Second Surface

Since stock that is S-2-S has the correct thickness, it is necessary in preparing this surface merely to remove the mill-marks, the smoothing plane being used as described in planing up the first board surface.

Planing First End

End planing differs from edge and surface planing in that there are no shavings, only sawdust, because the cutting takes place across the grain. Care must be taken in end planing not to sliver and break the arrises. This can be avoided by not planing entirely across the end. Plane about two-thirds of the way, then reverse and plane from the other direction (Fig. 38).

While the block plane is especially designed for doing end planing, any of the other planes may be used if a vise is at hand in which the piece of wood may be placed so as to allow both hands free for hold­ing the plane.

The Tests—The first test for accuracy in end plan­ing is made by holding the beam of the try-square firmly against the face edge and lowering the blade until it rests upon the end of the piece of wood. By holding the piece up between the light and the eye, any unevenness will be visible (Fig. 39). The second test is similar to the first except that the beam of the try-square is held against the face side instead of the face edge. Continue planing until both tests show no light between the try-square blade and the end of the wood.

From the end just squared up measure and mark the length desired, Fig. 40. With try-square and knife, mark lines (Fig. 41) at this point across face side and face edge. If there is more than 1/8in. of waste, saw it off, sawing about 1/16 in. outside and parallel to the line.

Fig. 40 — Measuring Length

Fig. 41 — Lining Across Face and Edge

Planing Second End

The second end is to be planed to the lines just made. The two tests given the first end should be applied to the second end while approaching the lines, that the end ma; be square when the lines are reached.

This completes the squaring up of stock mill-planed to correct thickness.

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