Among the various wood plane types used by wood-workers are the following: block plane, smooth plane, jack plane, jointer and a special plane known as a combination plane. Not all of these planes are absolutely necessary for simple work such as a beginner would do, but they are desirable. The smooth plane, jack plane and jointer differ only in their length, width of cutter or plane iron, and in the manner of shaping the cutting edge of the plane iron.

The jack plane, Fig. 18, is used for planing off rough surfaces or where it is desired to take off a large quantity of wood quickly. Since it is not expected to leave the surface smooth, this being done by means of another wood plane, the plane iron of the jack plane is ground rounding as shown in Fig. 18, B, this form of iron being better adapted for "roughing off."

The smooth plane, Fig. 19, is shorter than the jack wood plane. Since it is used merely, as its name implies, for smoothing off surfaces that have previously been straightened, or surfaces where straightening is not essential, the short length is an advantage rather than a disadvantage. Its plane iron is ground straight across with the corners very slightly rounded (Fig. 19, B).

For planing long edges straight, the jointer, Fig. 20, is used. Because of its great length it makes edge planing much easier than when the shorter planes are used. On account of its length, the high places must be cut off before the wood plane iron can touch the low places. Its iron is sharpened like that of the smooth plane—straight across.

The block plane, Fig. 21, is used for planing the ends of pieces of wood; for this reason no cap iron is necessary to break the shaving, there being none, only sawdust. It also differs from the other planes in that the bevel of the wood plane iron is turned up instead of down The block plane's chief advantage over the other planes for end planing lies in its being small enough to be operated with one hand, leaving the other free to hold the board.

The combination wood plane, Fig. 22, is used in making grooves, rebates, etc. By an exchange of cutters it may be made to take the place of a great variety of special planes.

Figure 23 shows a section of a modern wood plane and gives the names of the more important parts. From this it will be seen that the principal parts consist of the cap, the cap iron which breaks and bends the shaving (Fig. 24) so that the wood may not be torn up, the plane iron for cutting the wood and the frog to which these parts are fastened.

Figure 25 shows the relative positions of wood plane iron and cap iron. The cutting edge of the plane iron should extend about 1/16 in. below the edge of the cap iron for ordinary work. For fine work, the distance between the edges should be less. The cap iron and plane iron must be firmly fastened together, the cap being used to turn the stout screw, unless a screwdriver is at hand; otherwise, a few strokes will have pushed the iron back into the mouth of the plane.

After these parts are securely fastened together, put them on the frog, plane iron down and cap iron up, making sure the wood plane iron rests flat on the frog with the Y-adjustment in the slot in the cap iron made for it. Next, place the cap in position and push down the cam. Should this cam work loosely and the plane iron and cap iron not be held firmly, adjust the cap screw. Ordinarily this screw when once adjusted needs no attention. Should the cam work too hard, make surethe plane iron is flat on the frog- before releasing thecap screw.

Fig. 26 — Adjusting the Plane Iron

To adjust the blade or plane iron, hold it as shown in Fig. 26, turning the wood plane toward the light. Sight along the bottom, turning the adjusting nut until the blade will project very slightly, not much more than the thickness of drawing paper. The most common error beginners make in learning to use the plane is setting the plane iron too far out of the mouth of the plane. Move the lateral adjusting lever to one side or the other until the plane iron projects the same amount on each side.

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